Door'ian Gray - Designers and manufacturers of custom designed artistic doors from the renaissance to the modern style.


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CROSS SECTION OF A TYPICAL DOOR INSTALLATION

All parts are seen in position in this horizontal section drawing. Note that the hinge pin protrudes about 1/8" beyond the door; there are both left-hand and right-hand hinges for doors that open from either the left or the right. Doorstops fit snugly against the closed door (they are installed with the door in the closed position). The casing is set back slightly from the edge of the jamb to allow removal of the hinge pin. The leading edge of the door is bevelled to give the door clearance to swing without leaving a visible gap between the closed door and the jamb on the outside.


STEP 1

The standard height for interior doors is 6 feet 8 inches. Shorter doors, 6 feet 6 inches in height are available from your dealer. If it is necessary to cut away part of the door, take a little bit off both the top and the bottom rather than all off the bottom. Do not remove any more than 1/8" off any one side. Removing any more material may affect the structural integrity of the door.

STEP 2

Position the hinges on your door using the existing door as your template for hinge location. Mark the mortise areas with a utility knife, or butt hinge marking tool. The barrel of each hinge should extend at least 1/8" outside the surface of the door at its inside edge. For hollow core doors only 2 hinges are required; for solid core doors you will require 3 hinges.


STEP 2A.

Please note hinge locations when 3 hinges are required for solid core doors.


STEP 3

Chisel mortises in both jamb and door to a depth that will allow hinges to lie flush with adjacent surfaces. Make the recesses by first cutting small sections (left), then chiseling across the grain to remove chips (right).


STEP 4

Remove the pins from the hinges, a pair at a time. Install each hinge-half in its mortise bed on the door and on the jamb, making certain that the halves are properly matched. Drive the screws all the way in so the heads are flush.

STEP 5

With the aid of a helper, install door by slipping top hinges together and inserting pin part way. Do not set pins all the way until the job is finished. Finally slip lower hinge halves together and insert pin completely. Note: If the door does not fit opening, plane door edges using old door as a template.

STEP 6

Drill and chisel openings to accept the passage set, following the directions provided by the hardware manufacturer.


STEP 7

Whether you are staining or painting your door, it must be sealed on all surfaces including the edges to prevent moisture penetration. Doors should not be exposed to excessive heat, dryness, direct sunlight or excessive moisture prior to finishing. Failue to properly finish your door on all surfaces and edges will void the manufacturer's warranty.

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STEP 1. ROUGH OPENING

Before you start check, to make sure that the rough opening is 2" wider than the door width and 2" higher than the door height. This will allow you to square the door frame easily.


STEP 2. TOOLS

All you need is a hammer, screwdriver, and a level or plumb line. Its easy! For some applications a chisel may be required. See NOTE STEP 3. For retrofit installations, you may need a hand saw. See Step 6.


STEP 3. COMPONENTS

1. Door (A) comes pre-machines for a 2-3/4" backset 2 hinges and interior passage set (Fig. 2).

2. Hinge-side jamb (B) with door stop attached. The hinge locations are pre-cut to accept the reversible butt hinges.

3. Lock-side jamb mortised for the strike plate. This jamb is reversible and the doorstop (C) is easily changed depending on the swing of the door.

Note:The use of some brands of door passage sets may require modification to the machining for the latch and strike. Machining can be easily adjusted using a chisel.

4. Header (D) pre-drilled with door stop attached. A bag of four 1" screws (D1) is attached to the header. These screws are for attaching the header to the jamb.

5. Box (not shown) containing two hinges with removable pins complete with twelve screws. Once you have determined the swing of the door, you will use these screws to attach the hinges to the door and jamb.

STEP 4. DETERMINE DOOR SWING

Now you are ready to begin. Remove the pins from the hinge assemblies (Fig. 3)


Place the hinge-side jamb into the rough opening and determine your door swing (Fig. 4)


Attach the hinges with the screws supplied onto the door to achieve the correct swing (Fig. 5).


STEP 5. ASSEMBLE DOOR FRAME

Place the door frame jamb components on the floor (Fig. 6) Remove the door stop from the lock-side jamb. Confirm that the strike mortise ont he lock-side jamb is correct for the door swing you have determined. Screw the header to the side jambs by using 1" screws supplied.

Position the assembled frame into the rough opening, double checking that you have the correct door swing. Using a 2 1/2" finishing nail, tack the hinge-side frame in place at the top of the jamb (Fig. 7). Please note that if your opening allowance is off standard, you may need to trim the bottom of the jambs slightly.


Install the door onto the hinges and insert the hinge pins. With a level adjust the frame so that it is exactly vertical and tack a second nail at the bottom of the hinge jamb. Swing the door carefully to obtain the desired 1/8" gap between the door and the frame (Fig. 8).


Once the door is swinging smoothly, shim and nail the perimeter of the frame with 2 1/2" finishing nails. Nail through shims into rough opening jack studs (Fig. 9). Install the door stop (C) on the lock-side jamb when the door is in the closed position.

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INTERIOR DOORS

Standard and pre-hung doors


Lumberyards, home centers, and door stores sell "pre-hung" doors - doors that come already assembled in their frames and hung on their hinges. Pre-hung doors are usually more expensive than standard doors, but they are well worth the extra cost because hanging a standard door can be a tricky and time consuming chore if you have never done it before. Manufacturers provide specifications for a door's rough opening (r.o.) - the framed space into which the assembled door fits. Generally, the rough opening for any door is about 2 1/2" wider than the door at the side jambs with a 3-inch margin at the top. Installing a pre-hung door entails framing the rough opening, shimming and nailing the jamb; and attaching the casing.

Pass set: You can buy a door that includes an installed knob, latch and lock. If you prefer to save money by installing the pass set yourself, buy a door with the holes for the lock and latch-bolt assembly and the mortise for the faceplace already drilled and cut, unless you have a set of drill bits ranging up to 2 1/8" in diameter - a bit size used mostly by professionals.

Hanging a standard door: The standard height for hanging an interior door is 6 feet 8 inches. In most instances, clearance at the bottom of the door for the threshold or a rug can be obtained by making adjustments when cutting and shimming the top and side jambs. If it is necessary to cut away part of the door, and you are working with a hollow-core door, take a little bit off both the top and the bottom. If for some reason you must cut more than 4 inches from a hollow-core door, make the cut entirely from the botton then re-fit the spline in the exposed channel in the door bottom.

The doorframe assembly: Pre-hung doors are purchased fully assembled by the manufacturer, and are therefore less difficult to frame and hang than standard doors. But the elements of either type of door are the same, as shown here. The rough opening for the door in the wall frame consists of king studs, jack studs, and a header - 2 1/2" wider than the door at the sides and about 3" higher at the top. Jambs are positioned in the rough opening and shimmed square and plumb; hinges are hung on a side jamb; the gap between the jambs and the wall frame is covered with casing.

Cross Section of a Typical Door Installation: All parts are seen in position in this horizontal section drawing. Note that the hinge pin protrudes about 1/8" beyond the door; there are both left-hand and right-hand hinges for doors that open from either the left or the right. Doorstops fit snugly against the closed door (they are installed with the door in the closed position). The casing is set back slightly from th edge of the jamb to allow removal of the hinge pin. The leading edge of the door is bevelled to give the door clearance to swing without leaving a visible gap between the closed door and the jamb on the outside. Side jambs are bevelled for neat fit with casings. Pre-hung doors come hinged to their jambs.


Door'ian Gray - Designers and manufacturers of custom designed artistic doors from the renaissance to the modern style.


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